JERUSALEM — From atop the Mount of Olives, across the storied Valley of Kidron, we could view the ancient city of Jerusalem, its buildings perched upon the hills of Acra, Mount Moriah, Zion and Bezetha — punctuated by the shining, golden Dome of the Rock.

It was here, finally, that we would trace the final steps our Lord walked before His death and resurrection. Imbedded in our psyche were lines from Scripture that now come to life in the place names and the very stones we saw before us.

Atop Mount Moriah — the Temple Mount — one of Islam’s three holiest sites — stands watch over the last remains of the second Jewish Temple. The Western Wall, opened again to people of Jewish faith in the wake of the Six-Day War, is all that remains of the Temple where Jesus challenged the money-changers and lamented that they had made His Father’s house "a den of thieves."

The truth is, there is so much to see in Jerusalem that it is almost impossible to do anything but scratch the surface in a week’s time. And we had only four days to explore all the sacred landmarks. Perhaps after a few years of exploring, then one might be able to get a thorough understanding of these hills and valleys that have been occupied since the dawn of civilization.

Despite being overwhelmed with the thoughts of the ancient demeanor of the city, I experienced a kind of transformation from tourist to pilgrim myself, as we followed in the path of a couple church groups from the States that were praying the Stations of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa, the street of sorrows, through which He carried His cross.

This sorrowful street, narrow and ancient, is accessed by the courtyard of Omariye College, the gathering spot every Friday when members of the Franciscan Custody begin their weekly devotion of the Way of the Cross. A minaret in the back of this square marks the site of the Roman fortress where Jesus was condemned by Pilate. From here, pilgrims make their way past the Chapels of the Condemnation and Flagellation — Franciscan chapels located at about the site of Christ’s condemnation, where He takes up His cross. Pilgrims can visit the Lithostrotos, below the Ecce Homo Convent, where huge flagstones dating to the second century A.D. are all that remain of what likely was the Roman Forum of Aelia Capitolina. Other stations are marked along the route, and every day one can discover pilgrims praying at each stop.

The final five stations are all located within the confines of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

We followed a group of pilgrims from Africa through the church, and I was struck by the change that occurred when many members of that group walked up to the shrine marking where Jesus was nailed to the cross. Next to that Latin shrine was a Greek Orthodox altar that stands over the Rock of Calvary. Under the altar at that site is a round, metallic inset where one can touch the site that is said to have held Jesus’ cross.

Down a few steps, one encounters the Stone of the Anointment, where Jesus was laid after His death in preparation of being entombed. And, then, a few feet away is a chapel built over Christ’s tomb. This most sacred site is most moving, and reverential pilgrims shuffle slowly for their chance to enter the cramped space of the tomb, light a candle and say a short prayer.

In the course of our sojourn, we had been able to witness a bit of the history of Jerusalem and the Holy Land. Jerusalem, still a vibrant, international city that is the very soul of Israel, remains an enigmatic focal point of religious fervor for people of faith across the globe. And it is a city still contested: proposals remain on the table of someday making parts of East Jerusalem a new Palestinian capital. The new state of Israel continues to struggle with its self-identity and its survival. And, meanwhile, Christians of all stripes and backgrounds continue to traverse the cobblestone byways of the city.

CT PHOTO BY DENNIS O’CONNOR

A marble slab marks the site within the Church of the Holy Sepulcher where tradition holds that Jesus was lain after His crucifixion.